Beers
Ingredients:
1 lb. malt extract 1 gallon water
1 oz. hops Brewer's (or dried) yeast
1 level teaspoon
liquid gravy browning
(caramel)
Method:
Boil all the ingredients except the yeast together for 90 minutes; add more water
to restore the original volume. Strain, allow to cool until tepid, add yeast. Keep closely
covered in a warm room for four days. Siphon off into strong bottles, avoiding disturbing
the yeast deposit, pop half a lump of sugar into each bottle and tie down the corks with
string. Keep in a really cool place. It should be ready to drink in a fortnight to three
weeks, but improves with keeping.
BLACK HOME BREW
To make a black home-brew of stout-like quality, use the Cheshire Home Brew
recipe, but include 1 lb. of patent black malt and 1 lb. of crushed barley in place of the
crystal malt. These specialised ingredients can be obtained from Semplex, of Birkenhead.
BROWN ALE
Ingredients:
1 lb. bran Gravy browning
2 oz. dried hops Yeast
2 lb. Demerara sugar 3 gallons water
Method:
Put two gallons of water in a three-gallon boiler, and put third gallon by. Bring to
boil. Add sugar, 2 oz. dried hops (buy Heath and Heather packeted hops from chemists),
bran, and two teaspoonsful of gravy browning (the liquid variety—which is only caramel
colouring). Boil gently for 1½ hours. Strain through muslin into crock and on to third
gallon of cold water. Leave to cool until blood heat, then pour into three one-gallon jars,
filling to shoulder only. Add brewer's yeast, if obtainable, or dried yeast, fit traps and
leave for seven days (in room temperature of 65 degrees). Then siphon into half-gallon
bottles (or smaller ones if these are not available), cork really tightly, tie down corks. The
beer may be drunk after another week, but will not be really clear. To clarify, it should be
kept at least three weeks after bottling in a cool place. And keep an eye on those corks!
This is an excellent and really cheap ale, and may be made week by week to accumulate a
quantity, each fresh brew being put on to part of the lees of the former one, and the
surplus yeast thrown away or used for other purposes. If this system is to be followed it
pays to obtain a small quantity of true brewer's yeast initially, and it can then be kept
going for several months. This brown ale costs about 1/- a gallon.
CANADIAN LAGER
This recipe, for a lager specially suited to the Canadian palate, is one advocated by
Wine-Art Sales Ltd., of Box 2701, Vancouver 8, B.C.
1 six Imperial gallon primary fermentation vessel (plastic preferred),
1 five Imperial gallon plastic or glass carboy and fermentation lock,
1 five-foot syphon tube,
1 plastic sheet (1 yd. sq.) to cover primary vessel,
1 Specific Gravity or Brix hydrometer and testing jar,
1 stainless steel or enamel vessel, not less than 1 Imperial gallon,
1 wooden or stainless steel spoon,
1 bottle capper for crown caps,
5 dozen beer bottles, tall or stubby,
1 immersion-type thermometer.
Ingredients:
5 Imperial gallons of water
1 2 ½ lb. tin of light barley malt extract
2 ozs. Branding or Ouster hops
½ oz. Kent finishing hops
4 lb. of Corn sugar (Dextrose)
1 teaspoon citric acid
2-3 teaspoons of salt
½ teaspoon yeast energiser
½ teaspoon special beer finings
1 teaspoon heading liquid
Lager beer yeast or ale yeast
note: The addition of one teaspoon of ascorbic acid at time of bottling will reduce
the hazard of oxidation
Method:
Be sure to save two full cups of corn sugar for bottling; then make sure your yeast
starter is ready to use. Boil as much of the water as possible. Naturally, this will depend
on the size of the container you have, but not less than one gallon. Along with the water
you should boil the malt extract, 2 oz. of hops (broken up and tied in cheesecloth), the salt
and citric acid. Simmer very gently for 1-2 hours with a lid on to reduce evaporation. As
you remove this from the heat, add the ½ oz. of Kent hops which can remain in the "wort"
during the primary fermentation. Pour this hot wort over the corn sugar (minus the two
cups, remember). Stir to dissolve the sugar and add the balance of the water to make up a
total of five Imperial gallons.
Cover the "wort" with a sheet of plastic tied down and allow the mixture to cool to
around 60 degrees F. This may take up to 12 hours, so don't hold your breath. The
fermentation vessel should be in a place where the temperature will remain between 55
and 65 degrees F. When the "wort" is cool, take a Specific Gravity reading to make sure it
is between 33 and 38. (The starting gravity should be 30 to 40, and the beer should finish
at 0, i.e. 1.035 to 1.000). If it is not correct, you can adjust it by adding more sugar or
water, depending on whether it is high or low.
Now add the active beer yeast and cover once again with the plastic sheet. After
about four or five days of active ferment you can start checking the Specific Gravity to
see how the ferment is progressing. It will probably take six to ten days to get down to
between 5 to 10 (1.010) depending on the temperature. When it gets to this point, skim
off the floating hops, add the yeast energiser, and siphon the wort into the carboy. Don't
fill the carboy too full because you need room to add the "finings" at this point. Dissolve
the half teaspoon of finings in one cup of very hot water (not boiling) and pour this on top
of the beer in the carboy and stir in thoroughly with the handle end of your wooden
spoon. The carboy should now be filled to within two or three inches of the fermentation
lock which should be properly attached at this time.
Now that your beer is in the carboy with the fermentation lock attached and placed
in a cool (55 to 65 degrees F.), place away from the light. It is safe even if you don't get to
look at it for up to three weeks. Under normal circumstances, it will be clear and the
gravity down to zero (1.000) in about ten days. Don't worry about the extra time involved
in making beer this way, inasmuch as your beer is ageing in the carboy and will be ready
that much sooner after bottling. In any case, when these two things occur, i.e. the brew is
reasonably clear and the gravity is down to 1,000, the time has come for bottling.
Now take those two cups of sugar saved from your 4 lb. Siphon off about two
pints of beer into a clean saucepan, warm on the stove, and dissolve the two cups of sugar
to make a beer sugar syrup. Be sure the saucepan is big enough because the mixture will
foam all over the stove if it's not, and annoy your wife somewhat. When this is ready,
siphon off the rest of the beer into your clean primary fermenter, being careful not to
disturb the yeast sediment.
Save your yeast. At this time you can get your yeast back for your next brew by
swirling the sediment in the bottom of the carboy and, using a small funnel, pour it into a
clean beer bottle and cap immediately. Place this bottle in the crisper part of your
refrigerator where it won't freeze. The next time you make beer you will not have to grow
your yeast but merely take this bottle from the refrigerator, open it and add it to the "wort"
when the wort is properly cooled. This yeast starter will be good in the refrigerator for
approximately three to five weeks in the case of Lager yeast and two to three weeks for
Ale yeast.
Now that we have the clear beer in the primary fermenter and the gravity is 1.000,
stir in the syrup, making sure it is thoroughly distributed, but do not aerate the beer too
much. At the same time you can be stirring in the teaspoonful of Heading Liquid. The
gravity of this mixture should be approximately 1.005. We will assume that you have
already prepared your five dozen bottles, that they are thoroughly clean and standing in a
convenient place to be filled to within one inch of the cap. It does not matter if they are
wet inside, in fact, it may make it easier to fill them by reducing the foaming. Cap them
immediately and place in a temperature of 60 to 70 degrees F. for ten days and then chill
and try the results of your labour.
For Ale use the same recipe with the addition of 1 oz. of gypsum, and Ale instead
of Lager beer yeast.
CHESHIRE HOME BREW
Ingredients:
2 gallons water 1 oz. yeast or a packet of
2 lb. crystal matt dried brewer's yeast
1-lb. tin of Golden Syrup 1 oz. hops
Teaspoonful of salt
Method:
Bring the two gallons of water in the boiler up to 150 F. Add the malt and
maintain at a temperature of 140-150 F. for four hours. It is most important that the
temperature never exceeds 150 F. Strain off, and this leaves you with the wort. Add the
hops and salt to the liquor and boil for an hour. Strain again and add the syrup. Allow to
cool to 65 F. and add the yeast. Ferment at between 65 and 70 F. for four days. To a large
two-gallon stone jar add a tablespoonful of sugar, and then siphon in your home brew. All
sediment will sink under the level of the tap, if you are using the usual home-brew type of
jar. Leave in the jar, which must be quite airtight, for a week to ten days. Your homebrew
is then ready to drink, and should prove a really satisfying and nourishing drink.
FROM DRIED MALT EXTRACT
Many home-brewers are now turning to the use of dried malt extract which is now
on the market, and which is much more pleasant and convenient to handle than the sticky
extract in jars.
It certainly makes an excellent brew, and readers may care to try these German
recipes for its use.
It is important to use a good, sedimentary beer yeast, which will settle firmly and
not rise throughout the wort, and it is best to make a starter for it a couple of days before
you start brewing. These recipes are those advocated by the firm which supplies the
Vierka XXXX beer yeast sold by Semplex.
In each of them, boil the dried malt and hops in the water for half an hour. Strain
into two-gallon fermentation jar and fit an air lock.
Allow the liquor to cool to 70 degrees F. then add your yeast starter, and leave to
ferment in a warm room for a week or eight days.
Siphon into a cask, jar with tap, or strong quart cider bottles. Make a priming
syrup by dissolving 1 lb. of sugar in ½ pint of boiling water. To a 2-gallon container add
1 ½ oz. of this syrup, and to other containers and bottles proportionately, when siphoning
the beer into them and this will impart a sparkle to the finished brew. With a cask or jar
finings may be added at the same time. Bung down or cork securely, and after a fortnight
to a month the beer will be ready to drink. Keeping it in a cool place will assist it to clear.
Here are the recipes:
Light Lager: 2 ½ lb. dried Malt Extract, 2 oz. hops, 2 gallons of water. Beer
Yeast.
Lager (Pilsener style): 4 ½ lb. dried Malt Extract, 1 oz. Hops, 2 gallons water,
Beer Yeast.
Lager (Munich style): 5 lb. dried Malt Extract, ½ oz. of Caramel, 1 oz. Hops, 2
gallons water, Beer Yeast.
Dark Beer or Porter: 6 ½ lb. dried Malt Extract, 1 oz, of Caramel, 2 gallons
water, Beer Yeast,
Ale: 6 ½ lb. dried Malt Extract, 2 gallons water, 2 oz. Hops, Beer Yeast.
Written by John Nott, cook to the Duke of Bolton
in 1726
TO MAKE COCK ALE
Take a couple of young cocks, boil them almost to a jelly in water, and put them
into four gallons of ale; put in also a pound of raisins of the sun stoned; infuse a pound of
dates, mace and nutmegs, of each two ounces, in a quart of canary; put them to the ale;
strain and squeeze out liquor, and put to it half a pint of new ale yeast. Let it work for a
day; you may drink it the next but it is better the third day; you may make it weaker by
mingling it with plain ale as you draw it, or you may put it into a firkin of ale. It is good
against a consumption and to restore decayed nature.
HOW TO START A GINGER BEER PLANT
Grow a Ginger Beer Plant with 2 oz. baker's yeast (buy it at a baker's where bread
is baked on the premises). Put the yeast into a jar and add ½ pint water, 2 level teaspoons
of sugar, and 2 level teaspoons of ground ginger.
Feed it each day for the next seven to ten days, add 1 teaspoon of sugar and 1
teaspoon of ground ginger. You will see your "plant" growing day by day.
Strain it Now strain the mixture through a piece of muslin or a very fine
household sieve (keep the sediment) and add to the liquid the juice of 2 lemons, 1 lb.
granulated sugar and 1 pint warm water. Stir until the sugar has dissolved, then make up
to 1 gallon with cold water.
Bottle it. Put the ginger pop into bottles, filling to about three inches from the top,
and leave for two hours, taking care not to put them on a stone floor, unless standing on a
piece of wood, Then cork lightly. Keep for seven to ten days before drinking.
WARNING: ON NO ACCOUNT USE SCREW STOPPERS. (This is
important, to avoid burst bottles).
And start again. The sediment you had left when you strained the mixture is
divided into two and put into separate glass jars. And you're back in the brewing business
again! But now you have two plants instead of one. If one plant is enough for you, give
the other to a friend and give him the recipe. To your sediment add half a pint of cold
water and carry on as before from "Feed it . . ."
HOME-BREW
By Mr. G. W. Reeves, of Cottage-by-the-Willows, 5 Willow Grove, Malton Road, York:
Ingredients:
1 lb. pure malt extract 1 gallon water
1 lb. sugar ½ teaspoon salt
1 oz. hops Yeast
Method:
Dissolve the malt extract, sugar and salt in the warmed water then add most of the
hops and boil for ½ hour, adding the remainder of the hops five minutes before the end.
Strain into a wide-necked jar so that it is filled to within 1 ½ inches of the top, and cover
well.
When cool add the yeast which should be dried brewer's or lager type.
The ferment should be complete within a week. When quite sure the ferment is
complete, rack off and add 2 oz. of sugar, stirring thoroughly.
Bottle in screw-top bottles, and in a few days the homebrew will be sparkling and
ready to drink.
HONEY BEER
Ingredients:
4 quarts water 4 oz. clear honey
1 oz. ground ginger Juice of 3 lemons
1 lb. white sugar Yeast
2 oz. lime juice
Method:
Boil two quarts of water with the ginger for half an hour. Put in a pan with the
sugar, lime juice, honey, lemon juice and the remaining two quarts of water (cold). When
just at blood heat, i.e. when you can bear your finger in it comfortably, add the yeast, a
general-purpose wine yeast or a level teaspoonful of granulated yeast. Let it remain,
closely covered, in a warm place for 24 hours, then strain through muslin. Allow to settle
for an hour or two, then bottle, but use strong bottles and keep an eye on the corks!
MILD BROWN ALE
Ingredients:
5 oz. hops 2 level teaspoonsful granulated
8 gallons water yeast
3 lb. brown sugar
Method:
Boil the hops and water together slowly for about 40-50 minutes, strain over the
sugar, and allow to cool. When tepid add the yeast. Turn into a pan or tub to ferment for
four days (at 65 degrees, up to a week if temperature is lower), then bottle. Tie down
corks. Can be drunk within a fortnight but may take a month really to clear.
BARLEY WINE
(By P. Bryant)
Ingredients:
1 ¾ lb. pale malted barley 1 level teaspoon ammonium
2 ozs. flaked rice or 4 ozs. sulphate
polished barley 1 level teaspoon gypsum
1 oz. hops ½ teaspoon salt
1 lb. sugar 1 Campden tablet
1 level teaspoon citric add 1 gallon water
Champagne yeast
Method:
Pick over and then put malted barley and adjunct through mincer to form the grist.
Heat one gallon of water to 68 degrees C. in 12-pint saucepan on very low gas; add grist
and maintain temperature at 62-68 degrees C. for two hours. Strain through kitchen sieve
and then replace wort in saucepan, add hops and gypsum and boil for 40 minutes. Strain
again, cool and take S.G., which should be around 48. Add 1 lb. sugar, Campden tablet,
citric acid, ammonium sulphate, and champagne yeast, and commence fermenting in
two-gallon polythene bucket with lid. Fermentation will be strong within 12 hours. Skim
brown scum from surface each day and after two days siphon into gallon jar and fit
fermentation lock. When clearing begins (which may be after six weeks) rack and refit
lock. When clear, rack again, cork up, and store for six months, after which it may be
bottled.
MILK STOUT
Ingredients:
2 lb. patent black malt 4 gallons water
6 oz. flaked barley 1 pkt. vitamin yeast food
2 lb. glucose (powdered) 1 oz. of hops
1 pkt. dried brewing yeast 1 teaspoonful of salt
Method:
Bring the water in the boiler to 150 degrees F., add the malt and flaked barley.
Keep at a steady 140-150 degrees F. for four hours. Great care should be taken that the
temperature does not exceed 150 degrees F. during the whole of the four-hour period, for
this is important in the extracting of the maltose, and is almost the most vital process in
this particular type of brewing. Strain, discard the malt, and add the hops and salt. Boil
for a further hour. Place 2 lb. of glucose in the crock, and pour over it the hot wort. Stir
well. Leave until the temperature is 65 degrees F. then scatter on the yeast and yeast food,
and stir well in. Ferment in the usual way for 48 hours in a warm place, then siphon into
bottles or jars. The brew is ready to drink in about a week. Flaked maize can also be used
to great advantage in all home brews, in place of the flaked barley.
NETTLE BEER
Ingredients:
2 gallons nettles 2 oz. hops
¼ oz. root ginger 4 oz. sarsaparilla
4 lb. malt 2 gallons water
1 level teaspoonful granulated 1 ½ lb. sugar
yeast 2 lemons
Method:
Choose young nettles. Wash and put into a saucepan with water, ginger, malt,
hops and sarsaparilla. Bring to the boil and boil for ¼ hour. Put sugar into a large crock or
bread pan and strain the liquor on to it; add the juice of the two lemons. Stir until the
sugar has dissolved, and allow to cool to 70 degrees F., keeping pan covered, then stir in
the yeast. Keep the crock, covered, in a warm room for three days, then strain the beer
into bottles, cork, and tie down or wire the corks. Keep the beer in a cool place for a week
before drinking—and keep an eye on the corks.! This makes an excellent summer drink
and should be made in May.
SPRUCE BEER
To make the beer the recipe is as follows:
Melt 2 lb. sugar, treacle, essence of malt, molasses, or honey, into a gallon of hot
water, put in cask or fermentation vessel, add one gallon cold water and two
tablespoonsful of the essence of spruce. When the must is tepid add ale yeast. Ferment for
two days and bottle. It will be ready for use within one week.
Ingredients:
1 lb. malt extract 1 gallon water
1 oz. hops Brewer's (or dried) yeast
1 level teaspoon
liquid gravy browning
(caramel)
Method:
Boil all the ingredients except the yeast together for 90 minutes; add more water
to restore the original volume. Strain, allow to cool until tepid, add yeast. Keep closely
covered in a warm room for four days. Siphon off into strong bottles, avoiding disturbing
the yeast deposit, pop half a lump of sugar into each bottle and tie down the corks with
string. Keep in a really cool place. It should be ready to drink in a fortnight to three
weeks, but improves with keeping.
BLACK HOME BREW
To make a black home-brew of stout-like quality, use the Cheshire Home Brew
recipe, but include 1 lb. of patent black malt and 1 lb. of crushed barley in place of the
crystal malt. These specialised ingredients can be obtained from Semplex, of Birkenhead.
BROWN ALE
Ingredients:
1 lb. bran Gravy browning
2 oz. dried hops Yeast
2 lb. Demerara sugar 3 gallons water
Method:
Put two gallons of water in a three-gallon boiler, and put third gallon by. Bring to
boil. Add sugar, 2 oz. dried hops (buy Heath and Heather packeted hops from chemists),
bran, and two teaspoonsful of gravy browning (the liquid variety—which is only caramel
colouring). Boil gently for 1½ hours. Strain through muslin into crock and on to third
gallon of cold water. Leave to cool until blood heat, then pour into three one-gallon jars,
filling to shoulder only. Add brewer's yeast, if obtainable, or dried yeast, fit traps and
leave for seven days (in room temperature of 65 degrees). Then siphon into half-gallon
bottles (or smaller ones if these are not available), cork really tightly, tie down corks. The
beer may be drunk after another week, but will not be really clear. To clarify, it should be
kept at least three weeks after bottling in a cool place. And keep an eye on those corks!
This is an excellent and really cheap ale, and may be made week by week to accumulate a
quantity, each fresh brew being put on to part of the lees of the former one, and the
surplus yeast thrown away or used for other purposes. If this system is to be followed it
pays to obtain a small quantity of true brewer's yeast initially, and it can then be kept
going for several months. This brown ale costs about 1/- a gallon.
CANADIAN LAGER
This recipe, for a lager specially suited to the Canadian palate, is one advocated by
Wine-Art Sales Ltd., of Box 2701, Vancouver 8, B.C.
1 six Imperial gallon primary fermentation vessel (plastic preferred),
1 five Imperial gallon plastic or glass carboy and fermentation lock,
1 five-foot syphon tube,
1 plastic sheet (1 yd. sq.) to cover primary vessel,
1 Specific Gravity or Brix hydrometer and testing jar,
1 stainless steel or enamel vessel, not less than 1 Imperial gallon,
1 wooden or stainless steel spoon,
1 bottle capper for crown caps,
5 dozen beer bottles, tall or stubby,
1 immersion-type thermometer.
Ingredients:
5 Imperial gallons of water
1 2 ½ lb. tin of light barley malt extract
2 ozs. Branding or Ouster hops
½ oz. Kent finishing hops
4 lb. of Corn sugar (Dextrose)
1 teaspoon citric acid
2-3 teaspoons of salt
½ teaspoon yeast energiser
½ teaspoon special beer finings
1 teaspoon heading liquid
Lager beer yeast or ale yeast
note: The addition of one teaspoon of ascorbic acid at time of bottling will reduce
the hazard of oxidation
Method:
Be sure to save two full cups of corn sugar for bottling; then make sure your yeast
starter is ready to use. Boil as much of the water as possible. Naturally, this will depend
on the size of the container you have, but not less than one gallon. Along with the water
you should boil the malt extract, 2 oz. of hops (broken up and tied in cheesecloth), the salt
and citric acid. Simmer very gently for 1-2 hours with a lid on to reduce evaporation. As
you remove this from the heat, add the ½ oz. of Kent hops which can remain in the "wort"
during the primary fermentation. Pour this hot wort over the corn sugar (minus the two
cups, remember). Stir to dissolve the sugar and add the balance of the water to make up a
total of five Imperial gallons.
Cover the "wort" with a sheet of plastic tied down and allow the mixture to cool to
around 60 degrees F. This may take up to 12 hours, so don't hold your breath. The
fermentation vessel should be in a place where the temperature will remain between 55
and 65 degrees F. When the "wort" is cool, take a Specific Gravity reading to make sure it
is between 33 and 38. (The starting gravity should be 30 to 40, and the beer should finish
at 0, i.e. 1.035 to 1.000). If it is not correct, you can adjust it by adding more sugar or
water, depending on whether it is high or low.
Now add the active beer yeast and cover once again with the plastic sheet. After
about four or five days of active ferment you can start checking the Specific Gravity to
see how the ferment is progressing. It will probably take six to ten days to get down to
between 5 to 10 (1.010) depending on the temperature. When it gets to this point, skim
off the floating hops, add the yeast energiser, and siphon the wort into the carboy. Don't
fill the carboy too full because you need room to add the "finings" at this point. Dissolve
the half teaspoon of finings in one cup of very hot water (not boiling) and pour this on top
of the beer in the carboy and stir in thoroughly with the handle end of your wooden
spoon. The carboy should now be filled to within two or three inches of the fermentation
lock which should be properly attached at this time.
Now that your beer is in the carboy with the fermentation lock attached and placed
in a cool (55 to 65 degrees F.), place away from the light. It is safe even if you don't get to
look at it for up to three weeks. Under normal circumstances, it will be clear and the
gravity down to zero (1.000) in about ten days. Don't worry about the extra time involved
in making beer this way, inasmuch as your beer is ageing in the carboy and will be ready
that much sooner after bottling. In any case, when these two things occur, i.e. the brew is
reasonably clear and the gravity is down to 1,000, the time has come for bottling.
Now take those two cups of sugar saved from your 4 lb. Siphon off about two
pints of beer into a clean saucepan, warm on the stove, and dissolve the two cups of sugar
to make a beer sugar syrup. Be sure the saucepan is big enough because the mixture will
foam all over the stove if it's not, and annoy your wife somewhat. When this is ready,
siphon off the rest of the beer into your clean primary fermenter, being careful not to
disturb the yeast sediment.
Save your yeast. At this time you can get your yeast back for your next brew by
swirling the sediment in the bottom of the carboy and, using a small funnel, pour it into a
clean beer bottle and cap immediately. Place this bottle in the crisper part of your
refrigerator where it won't freeze. The next time you make beer you will not have to grow
your yeast but merely take this bottle from the refrigerator, open it and add it to the "wort"
when the wort is properly cooled. This yeast starter will be good in the refrigerator for
approximately three to five weeks in the case of Lager yeast and two to three weeks for
Ale yeast.
Now that we have the clear beer in the primary fermenter and the gravity is 1.000,
stir in the syrup, making sure it is thoroughly distributed, but do not aerate the beer too
much. At the same time you can be stirring in the teaspoonful of Heading Liquid. The
gravity of this mixture should be approximately 1.005. We will assume that you have
already prepared your five dozen bottles, that they are thoroughly clean and standing in a
convenient place to be filled to within one inch of the cap. It does not matter if they are
wet inside, in fact, it may make it easier to fill them by reducing the foaming. Cap them
immediately and place in a temperature of 60 to 70 degrees F. for ten days and then chill
and try the results of your labour.
For Ale use the same recipe with the addition of 1 oz. of gypsum, and Ale instead
of Lager beer yeast.
CHESHIRE HOME BREW
Ingredients:
2 gallons water 1 oz. yeast or a packet of
2 lb. crystal matt dried brewer's yeast
1-lb. tin of Golden Syrup 1 oz. hops
Teaspoonful of salt
Method:
Bring the two gallons of water in the boiler up to 150 F. Add the malt and
maintain at a temperature of 140-150 F. for four hours. It is most important that the
temperature never exceeds 150 F. Strain off, and this leaves you with the wort. Add the
hops and salt to the liquor and boil for an hour. Strain again and add the syrup. Allow to
cool to 65 F. and add the yeast. Ferment at between 65 and 70 F. for four days. To a large
two-gallon stone jar add a tablespoonful of sugar, and then siphon in your home brew. All
sediment will sink under the level of the tap, if you are using the usual home-brew type of
jar. Leave in the jar, which must be quite airtight, for a week to ten days. Your homebrew
is then ready to drink, and should prove a really satisfying and nourishing drink.
FROM DRIED MALT EXTRACT
Many home-brewers are now turning to the use of dried malt extract which is now
on the market, and which is much more pleasant and convenient to handle than the sticky
extract in jars.
It certainly makes an excellent brew, and readers may care to try these German
recipes for its use.
It is important to use a good, sedimentary beer yeast, which will settle firmly and
not rise throughout the wort, and it is best to make a starter for it a couple of days before
you start brewing. These recipes are those advocated by the firm which supplies the
Vierka XXXX beer yeast sold by Semplex.
In each of them, boil the dried malt and hops in the water for half an hour. Strain
into two-gallon fermentation jar and fit an air lock.
Allow the liquor to cool to 70 degrees F. then add your yeast starter, and leave to
ferment in a warm room for a week or eight days.
Siphon into a cask, jar with tap, or strong quart cider bottles. Make a priming
syrup by dissolving 1 lb. of sugar in ½ pint of boiling water. To a 2-gallon container add
1 ½ oz. of this syrup, and to other containers and bottles proportionately, when siphoning
the beer into them and this will impart a sparkle to the finished brew. With a cask or jar
finings may be added at the same time. Bung down or cork securely, and after a fortnight
to a month the beer will be ready to drink. Keeping it in a cool place will assist it to clear.
Here are the recipes:
Light Lager: 2 ½ lb. dried Malt Extract, 2 oz. hops, 2 gallons of water. Beer
Yeast.
Lager (Pilsener style): 4 ½ lb. dried Malt Extract, 1 oz. Hops, 2 gallons water,
Beer Yeast.
Lager (Munich style): 5 lb. dried Malt Extract, ½ oz. of Caramel, 1 oz. Hops, 2
gallons water, Beer Yeast.
Dark Beer or Porter: 6 ½ lb. dried Malt Extract, 1 oz, of Caramel, 2 gallons
water, Beer Yeast,
Ale: 6 ½ lb. dried Malt Extract, 2 gallons water, 2 oz. Hops, Beer Yeast.
Written by John Nott, cook to the Duke of Bolton
in 1726
TO MAKE COCK ALE
Take a couple of young cocks, boil them almost to a jelly in water, and put them
into four gallons of ale; put in also a pound of raisins of the sun stoned; infuse a pound of
dates, mace and nutmegs, of each two ounces, in a quart of canary; put them to the ale;
strain and squeeze out liquor, and put to it half a pint of new ale yeast. Let it work for a
day; you may drink it the next but it is better the third day; you may make it weaker by
mingling it with plain ale as you draw it, or you may put it into a firkin of ale. It is good
against a consumption and to restore decayed nature.
HOW TO START A GINGER BEER PLANT
Grow a Ginger Beer Plant with 2 oz. baker's yeast (buy it at a baker's where bread
is baked on the premises). Put the yeast into a jar and add ½ pint water, 2 level teaspoons
of sugar, and 2 level teaspoons of ground ginger.
Feed it each day for the next seven to ten days, add 1 teaspoon of sugar and 1
teaspoon of ground ginger. You will see your "plant" growing day by day.
Strain it Now strain the mixture through a piece of muslin or a very fine
household sieve (keep the sediment) and add to the liquid the juice of 2 lemons, 1 lb.
granulated sugar and 1 pint warm water. Stir until the sugar has dissolved, then make up
to 1 gallon with cold water.
Bottle it. Put the ginger pop into bottles, filling to about three inches from the top,
and leave for two hours, taking care not to put them on a stone floor, unless standing on a
piece of wood, Then cork lightly. Keep for seven to ten days before drinking.
WARNING: ON NO ACCOUNT USE SCREW STOPPERS. (This is
important, to avoid burst bottles).
And start again. The sediment you had left when you strained the mixture is
divided into two and put into separate glass jars. And you're back in the brewing business
again! But now you have two plants instead of one. If one plant is enough for you, give
the other to a friend and give him the recipe. To your sediment add half a pint of cold
water and carry on as before from "Feed it . . ."
HOME-BREW
By Mr. G. W. Reeves, of Cottage-by-the-Willows, 5 Willow Grove, Malton Road, York:
Ingredients:
1 lb. pure malt extract 1 gallon water
1 lb. sugar ½ teaspoon salt
1 oz. hops Yeast
Method:
Dissolve the malt extract, sugar and salt in the warmed water then add most of the
hops and boil for ½ hour, adding the remainder of the hops five minutes before the end.
Strain into a wide-necked jar so that it is filled to within 1 ½ inches of the top, and cover
well.
When cool add the yeast which should be dried brewer's or lager type.
The ferment should be complete within a week. When quite sure the ferment is
complete, rack off and add 2 oz. of sugar, stirring thoroughly.
Bottle in screw-top bottles, and in a few days the homebrew will be sparkling and
ready to drink.
HONEY BEER
Ingredients:
4 quarts water 4 oz. clear honey
1 oz. ground ginger Juice of 3 lemons
1 lb. white sugar Yeast
2 oz. lime juice
Method:
Boil two quarts of water with the ginger for half an hour. Put in a pan with the
sugar, lime juice, honey, lemon juice and the remaining two quarts of water (cold). When
just at blood heat, i.e. when you can bear your finger in it comfortably, add the yeast, a
general-purpose wine yeast or a level teaspoonful of granulated yeast. Let it remain,
closely covered, in a warm place for 24 hours, then strain through muslin. Allow to settle
for an hour or two, then bottle, but use strong bottles and keep an eye on the corks!
MILD BROWN ALE
Ingredients:
5 oz. hops 2 level teaspoonsful granulated
8 gallons water yeast
3 lb. brown sugar
Method:
Boil the hops and water together slowly for about 40-50 minutes, strain over the
sugar, and allow to cool. When tepid add the yeast. Turn into a pan or tub to ferment for
four days (at 65 degrees, up to a week if temperature is lower), then bottle. Tie down
corks. Can be drunk within a fortnight but may take a month really to clear.
BARLEY WINE
(By P. Bryant)
Ingredients:
1 ¾ lb. pale malted barley 1 level teaspoon ammonium
2 ozs. flaked rice or 4 ozs. sulphate
polished barley 1 level teaspoon gypsum
1 oz. hops ½ teaspoon salt
1 lb. sugar 1 Campden tablet
1 level teaspoon citric add 1 gallon water
Champagne yeast
Method:
Pick over and then put malted barley and adjunct through mincer to form the grist.
Heat one gallon of water to 68 degrees C. in 12-pint saucepan on very low gas; add grist
and maintain temperature at 62-68 degrees C. for two hours. Strain through kitchen sieve
and then replace wort in saucepan, add hops and gypsum and boil for 40 minutes. Strain
again, cool and take S.G., which should be around 48. Add 1 lb. sugar, Campden tablet,
citric acid, ammonium sulphate, and champagne yeast, and commence fermenting in
two-gallon polythene bucket with lid. Fermentation will be strong within 12 hours. Skim
brown scum from surface each day and after two days siphon into gallon jar and fit
fermentation lock. When clearing begins (which may be after six weeks) rack and refit
lock. When clear, rack again, cork up, and store for six months, after which it may be
bottled.
MILK STOUT
Ingredients:
2 lb. patent black malt 4 gallons water
6 oz. flaked barley 1 pkt. vitamin yeast food
2 lb. glucose (powdered) 1 oz. of hops
1 pkt. dried brewing yeast 1 teaspoonful of salt
Method:
Bring the water in the boiler to 150 degrees F., add the malt and flaked barley.
Keep at a steady 140-150 degrees F. for four hours. Great care should be taken that the
temperature does not exceed 150 degrees F. during the whole of the four-hour period, for
this is important in the extracting of the maltose, and is almost the most vital process in
this particular type of brewing. Strain, discard the malt, and add the hops and salt. Boil
for a further hour. Place 2 lb. of glucose in the crock, and pour over it the hot wort. Stir
well. Leave until the temperature is 65 degrees F. then scatter on the yeast and yeast food,
and stir well in. Ferment in the usual way for 48 hours in a warm place, then siphon into
bottles or jars. The brew is ready to drink in about a week. Flaked maize can also be used
to great advantage in all home brews, in place of the flaked barley.
NETTLE BEER
Ingredients:
2 gallons nettles 2 oz. hops
¼ oz. root ginger 4 oz. sarsaparilla
4 lb. malt 2 gallons water
1 level teaspoonful granulated 1 ½ lb. sugar
yeast 2 lemons
Method:
Choose young nettles. Wash and put into a saucepan with water, ginger, malt,
hops and sarsaparilla. Bring to the boil and boil for ¼ hour. Put sugar into a large crock or
bread pan and strain the liquor on to it; add the juice of the two lemons. Stir until the
sugar has dissolved, and allow to cool to 70 degrees F., keeping pan covered, then stir in
the yeast. Keep the crock, covered, in a warm room for three days, then strain the beer
into bottles, cork, and tie down or wire the corks. Keep the beer in a cool place for a week
before drinking—and keep an eye on the corks.! This makes an excellent summer drink
and should be made in May.
SPRUCE BEER
To make the beer the recipe is as follows:
Melt 2 lb. sugar, treacle, essence of malt, molasses, or honey, into a gallon of hot
water, put in cask or fermentation vessel, add one gallon cold water and two
tablespoonsful of the essence of spruce. When the must is tepid add ale yeast. Ferment for
two days and bottle. It will be ready for use within one week.
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